Italian phrase of the day: pomeriggio chuisa - closed in the afternoon.
Disclaimer: posted hours are left to the discretion of the proprietor (they should be interpreted loosely as they may not be open the times posted. For example, if it "closes" at 7:30, in actuality it could be closed when one shows up at 7:15.) hence, the search for the #*^%* SIM card continues...
Alas, we didn't have to search long. We drove to Reggio E (a.k.a. Reggio Emilia) and bought one. The old town is really cute. We wandered around. We didn't do what we usually do - eat, because we were still full from our €16 lunch that included taglietelle with ragu, magherita pizza, 2 glasses of vino rosso and a bottle of water. What a steal! It was recommended to us by Stefania. And we figured if her tastes are half as good as her baking, then we knew it would be great " simple, traditional food at a honest price" as she said. Added bonus: we were the only English speakers in the very crowded restaurant.
Italian phrase of the day (secondi) : primo colazione - contrary to popular belief, it does not mean "the best calzones". It oddly means "first course", or breakfast. So no, señora, they do not have a "calzone take-out menu".